More than three thousand years ago, in order to safeguard the rich spice caravans that were making their way through the Land of Sheba, King Solomon sent soldiers from Jerusalem to the southern tip of the Arabian Peninsula. Knowing that they would probably never return to the Promised Land, the soldiers set off with their wives and children. Once there, in the land today known as Yemen, the families settled in for a prolonged stay, and for nearly three thousand years the Jews of Yemen were cut off, not only from their Jewish brothers and sisters, but for all practical purposes, from the rest of the world as well.
Despite the its isolation, the community guarded its religious and cultural traditions zealously. In 1950 a huge airlift known as Operation Magic Carpet brought thousands of Yemeni Jews to Israel. Some years later, in a very secret operation called "Operation Magic Carpet 2," nearly all of the remaining Jews of Yemen were brought to Israel.
When the Jews of Yemen arrived in Israel, they brought with them an ancient and sophisticated culinary tradition. And much of what they brought has become part of the everyday fare that can now be found throughout Israel. Many Europeans ignored Yemeni cuisine, claiming that it is "too exotic" for the Western palate but the truth is that these are no more "exotic" than the passion the French have for snails or the Italians have for sea urchins.
The most representative dishes of the Jewish-Yemeni kitchen are delicious but not at all exotic, and rely heavily on lamb, mutton and beef. Honey is used frequently in recipes as are tomatoes, cucumbers and mushrooms. Several especially tasty homemade breads are also important to this cookery. And, because this is the cuisine of a people that were not ordinarily wealthy, nearly all of the foods used are easily and inexpensively available. What makes the cuisine unique is the subtle use of herbs and spices along with a few unique but easily mastered cooking methods.
1/2 kg. boneless mutton or lamb, minced
1 medium onion, chopped finely
1 slice white bread, without crusts
1 egg
1 tsp. parsley, chopped
1/2 tsp. each salt and black pepper
1-2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 tsp. zhug (see note at the end of this recipe)
1/2 tsp. sweet paprika
flour as required
Mix the meat, onion, bread, egg, parsley, salt, pepper, garlic, zhug, and paprika. Knead well by hand and form into balls about 1" (2 1/2 cm.) in diameter. Sprinkle with the flour.
Heat a small amount of oil in a heavy skillet and brown the meatballs. Reduce the heat, add enough oil to just cover the meatballs and cook, covered, until the meatballs are done (about 20 minutes). May be served hot or cold either as a first course or with Seasoned Soup with Bread.
Serves 4-6.
Note: Zhug, the most popular spice mixture of Yemen, can be purchased at delicatessen stores specializing in ethnic cuisine. If you cannot find it, you can make it at home by pureeing 1 cup of fresh chili peppers and then adding 1/2 cup each of parsley and coriander leaves, blending again and then adding 1 Tbsp. minced garlic, 1 tsp. each of salt, pepper and ground cumin and a pinch of ground cardamom. Keep in mind that this flavorful blend is fiery hot and should be used only in very small quantities.
This is not an easy bread to make, as the flipping of the flattened loaf onto the sides of a hot oven is an art form that needs to be mastered. The practice will be well worth the effort. Should one's initial efforts fail, any flat bread (such as pita) may be substituted.
3 Tbsp. fenugreek seeds, crushed
1 1/2 tsp. tomato puree
1/2 kilo flour
1 Tbsp. active dry yeast
Combine the fenugreek seeds with the tomato puree and 3 Tbsp. of water and mix together well. Cook over a low flame and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat.
Sift together the flour and yeast and then knead the mixture together with just enough lukewarm water to make a moderately thick dough. Cover lightly and let stand to rise for half an hour. Repeat the kneading and rising process 6 times in all, kneading at half hour intervals.
Heat the oven to its highest possible temperature. Turn off the heat and, taking care not to burn yourself, wipe the walls of the oven with a wet cloth. Immediately after the last kneading flatten the dough and make two thin loaves. Over each spread 3 Tbsp. of the fenugreek mixture and, with a rapid motion, stick the breads on the walls of the oven. Let cook just until the bread peels off the walls and falls to the floor of the oven.
Note: Keep in mind that many Yemenis will make two portions of bread for each diner, one to be served in the soup and the other on a separate plate to be dipped into samneh. To prepare samneh, simply melt 1 cup of butter together with 1 Tbsp. of whole fenugreek seeds. When the butter has completely melted, skim the surface and carefully pour the butter into a small sauce dish, leaving behind the solids that have settled to the bottom of the skillet.
Serves 4-6.
1 Tbsp. fenugreek seeds
1/2 tsp. tomato puree
3 cups chicken or beef stock
2 loaves saluf bread (see following recipe) or pita
juice of 2 lemons
Soak the fenugreek seeds in water for 3 hours. Drain the seeds well and grind them finely. Add the tomato puree and 1 Tbsp. of water and blend together well. Place the mixture over a low flame and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove immediately from the heat and set aside.
Heat the stock and add the fenugreek mixture. Over a medium flame, bring just to a boil, stirring constantly. If the soup becomes overly thick, add more stock. As soon as a boil is attained, remove from the heat. To serve, divide the breads into equal portions and place one portion in each soup bowl. Pour the hot soup over the bread, add the lemon juice and serve at once.
Serves 4-6.
3 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped
1 Tbsp. zhug (more or less to taste)
1 1/2 cups mushrooms, chopped
4 or 6 entrecote steaks (can also use any other cut of steak or lamb chops)
3/4 cup beef stock
3 Tbsp. almonds, chopped
Place the tomatoes, zhug, chopped mushrooms and almonds in a small bowl and mix well. Spread this mixture on the steaks, divided evenly. Roll up the steaks and fasten with wooden toothpicks.
Transfer the steaks to a lightly greased baking dish and pour over the beef stock. Place in an oven that has been preheated to 330° Fahrenheit (170° Celsius) until done (about 1 hour), basting occasionally with the pan liquids. Add water or extra stock only if the liquids evaporate. Serve hot.
Serves 4-6.
Ingredients:
Chicken legs
Potatoes cut into quarters
Hawayij: spice for soup
chicken bullion cubes
3 tablespoons oil
Coriander leaves
1 whole onion
Water
For each person:
one leg of a chicken
1 potato
1 cup of water
Hawayij: a cury-like, yemenite spice mixture:
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon cardamom seeds
1 teaspoon saffron
2 teaspoons turmeric
Put the chicken legs into a pot and boil. Take the white foam out. Lower the fire and add the rest of the ingredients. Cook for 3/4 of an hour until the chicken is ready. Add Chilbah.
Grind the spices together thoroughly, and store them in an airtight jar.