Passover
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Adafina is one of many warm, overnight dishes (hamim)
prepared for the Jewish sabbath.
Jews are prohibited from cooking on the sabbath, but, on the other hand
have an obligation to enhance the joy and festivity of the sabbath with
warm, abundant food. They have learned to fulfill these potentially
conflicting obligations by devising dishes which can slowly cook overnight
from Friday afternoon until Saturday noon, when the family returns from
synagogue to enjoy sabbath lunch. In the days before each family had
adequate cooking facilities at home, such warm dishes were put into
a communal bakery oven. Today, each family has a special warming tray
or crockpot in their home to prepare such dishes. Each group of Jews
has its own special formulation for the sabbath, such as cholent, tzimmes,
t'fina, adafina, etc. Generally these include meat or chicken with such
starches as potatoes, rice, barley and beans. This particular overnight
dish is meant for Passover
and uses matzo instead of beans or barley.
Ingredients
4.5 pounds first-cut brisket
2 medium onions, peeled
2 T. salt
1 tsp. black pepper
5 medium potatoes, peeled
5 sweet potatoes, peeled and halved
3 large carrots, peeled and cut into 2 inch pieces
1/2 tsp. ground saffron
3 T. honey
6 matzas
other seasonings to your taste
Put brisket in a very large pot. Add water to cover
and bring to a boil. Lower heat; cook 15 minutes. Skim fat. Add everything
besides matzas. Bring to an even simmer. Just before the sabbath begins,
check the liquid level (it should be 1 inch above the solid ingredients),
add matzas, and cover securely. Serve on Saturday noon with the soup
part first, then the meat and vegetables following on a large serving
platter. Adafina needs only some matzo, a green salad and a compote
for dessert for a filling and delicious Passover sabbath meal.
Charoseth is one of the symbolic foods of the
Passover Festive Meal (Seder).
The significance of eating charoseth is to remind us today of the mortar
used by the Jewish people, when they were enslaved
by Pharoah in Egypt.
Each group of Jews has its own type of charoseth. The recipe below is
Ashkenazic; whereas other
charoseth recipes might be made from dates, oranges, raisins, figs,
etc., spiced in many different ways. After the seder, my family enjoys
charoseth as a spread to use on matzo.
Ingredients
6 large apples (Rome, Macintosh, Jonathan, mixed),
peeled and cored
2 cups walnuts, crushed
2 1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon
3.5 oz. honey
1 cup dry red wine
Blend all ingredients in a food processor or blender
until almost smooth. This is enough for 24 persons (one night at the
Reingolds' house).
This is the well-known and now universal soup of the
"Yiddishe mama" as it was served in east European Jewish homes.
Former Prime Minister of Israel Golda
Meir was known to cook a fine-tasting chicken soup for both family
and VIPs whenever they came to call. Chicken soup is reputed to cure
the sick but is equally recommended to the healthy.
1 soup chicken
2 cubes chicken bouillon
3 1/2 quarts water
2 onions
2 sprigs dill
1 tbs. salt
2 carrots
3 celery stalks
1 parsley root
3 sprigs parsley
1 tsp. lemon pepper salt
Clean chicken thoroughly. Combine in a deep saucepan
with water, onions, and bouillon. Bring to a boil and cook over medium
heat for 1 hour. Add remaining ingredients. Cover and cook over low
heat 1/2 hour longer, or until chicken is tender. Remove chicken and
strain soup. Taste and correct seasonings. Makes about 2 to 2-1/2 quarts
of soup. Use the chicken in other dishes or serve with the soup.
Passover
is the time for eggs. Almost all side dishes and desserts use huge numbers
of eggs. I buy about 12 dozen eggs before I begin my Passover cooking
and baking. I almost always need to buy more before I'm done. This cake
is fudgey and dark. Use the best quality chocolate you can find, kosher
for Passover. The recipe comes from an article in about 1975 by Pierre
Franey, The New York Times, about Cynthia Zeger, a renowned New
York baker.
Ingredients
10 eggs, separated, at room temperature
14 T. granulated sugar
6 ounces bittersweet chocolate, melted
2 cups finely chopped nuts
Preheat oven to 350° F.
Beat egg yolks and sugar until very thick and lemon
colored. Stir in the chocolate. Fold in the nuts. Beat egg whites until
stiff but not dry, and fold into the chocolate-nut mixture. Turn into
a greased 10 inch spring-form pan, and bake 1 hour. The cake is done
when the center springs back when lightly touched. Cool in the pan.
Serves 8-12.
The Jewish Sabbath
is honored and enhanced with meals of delicious and abundant food. Challah,
fish, meats, and sumptuous side dishes are served both Friday night
and Saturday noon. Among Eastern-European Jews, gefilte fish is the
traditional fish appetizer served on the Sabbath, the New
Year, and Passover.
Originally the ground fish mixture was actually put back into the skin
of the fish for cooking, giving rise to the name "filled"
or gefilte fish.
To improve on the traditional carp or carp and whitefish
mixture, I experimented for several years with pike, trout, salmon,
cod, and even halibut. I serve this gefilte fish recipe at Passover
and the less ambitious gefilte fish loaf during the rest of the year.
Stock Ingredients:
Fish bones, heads, divided between two 10-12 quart pots
3 quarts water in each of two pots
8 carrots, sliced, divided between two pots
1 celery root, cleaned and divided between two pots
2 large onions, sliced, divided between two pots
1 1/2 T. salt in each of two pots
1 1/2 T. black or white pepper in each of two pots
Fish Ingredients:
7 pounds, boneless and skinless filets of cod (bones and heads in
stock)
3 pounds, boneless and skinless filets of salmon (bones and heads
in stock)
2 very large onions
6 slices of good challah (or on Passover, 1.5 cups matzo meal)
4 carrots
1 cup water
1-2 T. white or black pepper
2 T. salt
8 eggs
1/2 cup olive oil
Yield: 60 large pieces
Combine all stock ingredients in the two pots, and bring to a boil.
Simmer at the lowest heat, covered, while preparing fish. Grind the
fish in batches, then grind onions (quite finely), challah or matzo
meal, and carrots.
I use a food processor to grind the fish, but you can
also chop it in a chopping bowl or have the fish monger grind it for
you. Put all ingredients, as they are ground, in a very large bowl or
tub. (For Passover, I use a perfectly clean dish tub. It's the only
thing large enough for all the ingredients to be thoroughly mixed.)
Beat water, pepper, salt, eggs and oil in a mixer or
in the food processor--this should be almost mousse consistency. Add
this to the fish mixture in the large bowl or tub and mix thoroughly.
(If you prefer, you can do all of this in batches in a food processor.)
With moist hands, shape 1/3 to 1/2 cup of mixture into
balls, and carefully place in the simmering stock. Be cautious that
you don't disturb existing pieces, but you can crowd and fill the stock
with fish balls. Distribute fish in the two pots, cover, and simmer
for 1.5 hours.
Let the fish cool a bit, covered. Then carefully remove
fish and vegetables to storage containers. Strain the liquid over the
fish. Remove the carrot pieces and onions and add to the fish. Throw
away the bones, and enjoy a "lunch" of the bits of fish in
the strainer.
Store the fish for up to 7 days, well refrigerated.
Serve mild or hot prepared horseradish on the side.
Originating in eastern
Europe, latkes (potato pancakes) have been a staple of the Jewish
diet for many years. Eaten especially during the festivals of Hanukah
and Passover, these light
and scrumptious treats continue to be a favorite on the Israeli
menu.
3-4 medium potatoes
2-3 tbs. of flour (or Matzo meal on Passover)
1 egg
cooking oil
salt and pepper
1 small onion (optional)
apple sauce (optional)
sour cream (optional)
Grate potatoes. Mix in egg, flour, salt and pepper.
Grated onion may be added for flavor. Form into patties and fry until
brown on both sides (about 2 minutes for each side). Serve with apple
sauce or sour cream.
3 Manischewitz Matzos (any variety)
2 tablespoons water or milk
2 tablespoons butter
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 eggs
Dash pepper
Break Manischewitz Matzos into pieces. Cover with
water and then pour water off immediately. Press excess water out of
matzos. Melt about 2 tablespoons of butter in a skillet; add matzos
and fry until lightly toasted. Beat eggs with remaining ingredients.
Pour over matzos and fry, stirring frequently, until eggs are set. Serves
2 to 3.
2 lbs. beef, ground
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 eggs, slightly beaten
3/4 cup Manischewitz Matzo Meal
1/4 cup tomato juice
1/4 cup catsup
1/2 cup onion, finely minced
Combine all ingredients and mix well. Form into
a rectangular loaf, 1" thick on a shallow pan. Broil four to
five inches away from the broiler unit, 10-15 minutes, without turning.
Serves 6 to 8.
Ratatouille is a southern French dish made from eggplant,
zucchini, onions, peppers, tomatoes, and garlic. There are many different
variations, and today you can find ratatouille pies, soups, and quiches.
I like this version adapted from Julia Child's Mastering the Art
of French Cooking (Volume 1), Knopf, 1971, because it preserves
the integrity of each type of vegetable and is moist without being soupy.
It has the additional advantage of using a small amount of oil because
of the initial roasting of the eggplant and zucchini.
1/2 pound zucchini, scrubbed, and sliced
into 1/8-inch slices
1/2 pound eggplant, scrubbed, and sliced
into thin (3/8-inch) slices, about 4-inches
by 1-inch
3 T. olive oil
1/2 pound thinly sliced yellow onions
1 sliced green bell pepper
2 cloves mashed garlic
1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and
juiced
3 T. parsley
salt and pepper
Preheat oven to 400°F. Spray two cookie sheets
with olive oil or another vegetable oil spray. Put the zucchini and
eggplant slices on the cookie sheets. Brush very lightly with olive
oil, and bake until slightly brown on each side. In a skillet, cook
onions and peppers slowly in 2 T. olive oil for about 10 minutes. Stir
in garlic, and season to taste. Slice tomato pulp into 3/8-inch strips.
Place tomato slices over onions and peppers. Season with salt and pepper.
Cover the skillet and cook over low heat for 5 minutes. Uncover, baste
with the tomato juices, r heat, and boil for several minutes, until
most of the juice has evaporated. Put 1/3 of tomato mixture in the bottom
of a casserole. Sprinkle with 1 T. parsley. Arrange 1/2 of the eggplant
and zucchini on top, then half of the remaining tomatoes and parsley.
Put the rest of the eggplant and zucchini, and finish with the remaining
tomatoes and parsley. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Correct seasoning.
Raise heat for 15 minutes, basting if dry. Serve cold, warm, or hot.
This is a simple, adaptable dish to serve during the
year or at Passover. It
is easily modified to include different vegetables such as root vegetables,
eggplant or squash. If you are substituting tougher root vegetables
such as rutabaga, turnips, or carrots, these should be sliced thinly
and cooked a bit longer. Just put the root vegetables in the roasting
dish 15 minutes before adding onions or other soft vegetables.
2 T. olive oil
3 medium yellow or red onions, thinly sliced
1 red pepper, sliced
1 green pepper, sliced
1 pound cleaned, sliced mushrooms
1/2 tsp. thyme
salt and pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 425°F.
Put the oil in a shallow, large roasting dish. Heat
for several minutes in the preheated oven. Spread the sliced vegetables
in one or two layers over the oil. Turn the vegetables a few times to
coat with the warm oil. Sprinkle with thyme, salt, and pepper. Cover
dish, and return to oven. Cook for 30 minutes. Remove the cover and
return to oven for 15 minutes. Serve with roasted poultry.
1-pound (2 cups) canned or cooked salmon
3 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon water
Dash pepper
1/2 cup matzo meal, for coating
1/4 cup Manischewitz Matzo Meal
1 can Manischewitz Tomato and Mushroom
Sauce
1/4 cup minced onion
Drain and flake salmon. Add salt, pepper, 1/4
cup Manischewitz Matzo Meal, onion, and 2 beaten eggs. Mix well;
shape into 6 croquettes. Beat third egg with the water. Dip croquettes
in egg mixture, then in the 1/2 cup of matzo meal. Fry in one inch
of hot fat until browned on both sides. Serve with heated Manischewitz
Tomato and Mushroom Sauce. Serves 3 or 4.
Salmon patties are one of childhood's comfort foods.
Even kids who claim to hate fish usually will eat many canned tuna and
salmon dishes. Salmon patties have the advantage of including the bones
and nutrients of the entire fish. Adults are also satisfied with salmon
patties as long as the flavoring is carefully adjusted and they are
served with interesting side dishes.
1 small onion
2 cans red salmon (16 ounces each), or you
can use 3-4 cups cooked fresh salmon
2 large eggs
1 cup good bread crumbs (or matzo meal for
Passover)
1-2 tsp. lemon juice
1/2-1 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1/2 tsp. dried dill or 2 sprigs fresh dill
3/4 tsp. paprika
3 sprigs fresh parsley
canola or olive oil
Peel onion and coarsely chop in food processor
with steel blade. Drain salmon, and add to
food processor (including bones, skin, etc.).
Pulse three or four times. Add eggs, 1/2 cup
bread crumbs, lemon juice, pepper, dill, paprika
and parsley. Pulse until you have a uniform
mixture, but do not over-process. Put the
remaining bread crumbs on a plate, and heat
the oil in a large frying pan while you are
preparing the patties. Form the mixture into
patties (3 inches in diameter and about 1/2
inch thick). Coat the patties with the bread
crumbs, and put into the hot oil to brown.
Brown on each side for about 4 minutes per
side. Serve hot or cold with a good tartar
sauce or mustard sauce.
2 pounds ground beef
1 egg
1 (1 ounce) envelope dry onion soup mix or Manischewitz Matzo Meal
3/4 cup brown sugar
2 tablespoons ketchup
10 ounces condensed tomato soup
1 can Manischewitz Tomato and Mushroom Sauce
1 onion, diced
6 ounces water
8 ounces sauerkraut, drained and rinsed
Mix beef, egg, Manischewitz Matzo Meal, onion soup
and ketchup until well blended. Form into small meatballs. In saucepan,
mix tomato soup, Manischewitz Tomato and Mushroom Sauce, onion, water,
sauerkraut and brown sugar. Add meatballs to sauce and cook over low
heat, covered, for 1-1/2 hours. Sauce will be thick and dark. Serves
4 to 6.
2 cups Manischewitz Matzo Farfel
2 eggs, beaten
1/4 teaspoon salt
Combine the Manischewitz Matzo Farfel with the egg
and salt. Spread in a thin layer on a greased baking pan. Bake in a
moderate oven (350ºF) 20 to 25 minutes or until lightly browned.
Serve in your favorite soup
Ingredients:
1 1/2 lbs. thin-sliced veal cutlet,
cut into strips 1/2 inch wide
1/2 cup Manischewitz Matzo Meal
2 small or 1 large green pepper
1/4 cup vegetable shortening or margarine
2 large onions, sliced
1/2 cup mushrooms, sliced
1/2 teaspoon salt
Dash pepper
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1 (10 ½ oz.) can Manischewitz
Tomato and Mushroom Sauce
3/4 cup water
Roll veal strips in Manischewitz Matzo Meal. Cut
green pepper into strips. Heat oil in a large skillet; sauté
meat over high heat until browned. Add onions and mushrooms; sprinkle
with salt, pepper and garlic powder. Sauté over low heat
5 minutes. Add Manischewitz Tomato and Mushroom Sauce, water and
green pepper. Cover and simmer over low heat 45 minutes or until
meat is tender. Serves 4.
In 1975, I started making these vegetable cutlets
(and also kugel) after finding the basic recipe in a flyer put out by
the Manishewitz company. I've tinkered with the proportions over the
years, and it remains a staple of our Passover
menu. For seders, I prepare it as a kugel, but for a smaller group I
take the time to fry individual cutlets. It's great in combination with
leek and beef patties, a tomato-based salad, and some matzo on the side.
3 T. olive oil
1 chopped green pepper
1 large onion, chopped (about 1 1/2 cups)
2 1/2 cups chopped carrot
3 T. chopped parsley
10 ounces chopped spinach (fresh or frozen)
3 eggs, beaten
1 1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
3/4 cup matzo meal
additional olive oil for frying
Sauté green pepper, onion, parsley,
and carrot in oil for 5 minutes. Cook spinach,
drain. Combine all vegetables. Add eggs, salt,
pepper, and matzo meal. Drop by heaping spoonful
into hot oil. Brown well on both sides. Makes
12-15 cutlets. This can also be made into
a kugel and baked at 350°F. for 40 minutes.
For a kugel, I double the amounts, put it
into a 9x13 pan, sprinkle with paprika, and
drizzle with a bit of olive oil.
Sources: Embassy of Israel; Israeli
Foreign Ministry; Ruth's
Kitchen; Manischewitz; Rogov's
Ramblings- Reprinted with permission.
Daniel Rogov is the restaurant
and wine critic for the daily newspaper Ha'aretz.
He is also the senior writer for Wine
and Gourmet Magazine and contributes culinary
and wine articles to newspapers in Europe
and the United States.
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