Beatrice Alexander
(1895 - 1990)
"You need to believe in people's dreams, especially
women's."
The woman who would become known as "Madame Alexander"
was born in Brooklyn, New York, on March 9, 1895. She was named Bertha
but later adopted the more sophisticated "Beatrice."
Alexander's mother, Hannah Pepper, was born in Austria
but arrived in the United States from Russia, where she had escaped
vicious pogroms. Shortly thereafter, she met and married Maurice Alexander,
who had left his native Odessa as a young man and spent several years
as an apprentice in Germany before coming to America.
According to some of Alexander's descendents, Hannah
was already pregnant with Beatrice when she came to the United States,
after her first husband and older children died in a pogrom in Russia.
Others believe that the couple came together to New York and that the
husband died when Beatrice was about a year and a half old. Regardless,
Beatrice adored her step-father Maurice and always considered him her
real father.
Beatrice and her sisters Rose, Florence, and Jean grew
up on Grand Street on the Lower East Side, in the heart of New York's
teeming immigrant community. Poverty was often extreme in this neighborhood,
where a myriad of different languages and different cultures existed
side by side. Like most of their neighbors, Hannah and Maurice had come
to the United States filled with expectations, and they had even higher
hopes for their children's future than they did for their own. The Alexander
girls were encouraged to work hard, do well in school, and aim high.
"Madame" Beatrice Alexander knew how to
dream big. Born into a world in which many women worked but few achieved
prominence in business, she built her own company virtually singlehandedly.
Raised amidst teeming poverty, she amassed a significant fortune. From
the obscurity of an immigrant neighborhood, she became one of the foremost
female entrepreneurs of the twentieth century.
Women have always participated in business endeavors,
but until recently most did so as members of a family unit. Alexander,
by contrast, was the driving force behind her firm, the Alexander Doll
Company, and she owed her position not to her husband or her extended
family but to her own efforts and skill. Over the years, her hard work,
innovative ideas, and instinctive business acumen enabled her to overcome
many hurdles common to both the business world in general and women
entrepreneurs more specifically.
Although Alexander's successes took her far from the
Lower East Side immigrant world of her childhood, she never lost sight
of those less fortunate than she. She donated substantial sums to both
Jewish and non-Jewish organizations in Israel and in the United States,
and she was a committed Zionist throughout her life. As a pioneering
businesswomen and a generous philanthropist, Beatrice Alexander demonstrated
to the world at large what a woman with drive, creativity, ambition,
and a benevolent heart could accomplish.
The Doll Hospital
Alexander's association with dolls began the year she
was born, when her stepfather opened the United States' first Doll Hospital.
Before the invention of plastic, most dolls were made of china and were
highly breakable; by restoring their shattered dolls to health, Maurice
earned the gratitude of countless children. "I remember a father
coming in the middle of the night because his little girl was sick and
had broken her doll and needed it right now - a difficult task when
the poor doll's head was shattered into dozens of pieces," Beatrice
said in 1983.
The contrast between the wealth of many of Maurice's
customers and the poverty of the neighborhood made a deep impression
on the young Beatrice, and like many other children of immigrants, she
became highly motivated to achieve a better future. "When I
was 11 or 12," she remembered, "I realized that there
were poor people and there were rich people, and I leaned towards the
rich. I wanted to have a carriage and a hat with ostrich feathers." Hannah assumed her daughter would achieve these goals by "marry[ing]
well" and joked that it would take three husbands to support
Beatrice in the manner she desired.
Alexander's early surroundings also accustomed her
to seeing women working at least as hard as men. Because few immigrant
families could afford to conform to middle-class ideals of leisured
ladies, the mothers and older sisters of most of Beatrice's playmates
would have contributed to the family income. If they did not work outside
the home, then immigrant women helped in family businesses, took in
boarders, or did piecework in the home. Beatrice's own mother worked
with her husband in his shop, as well as having full responsibility
for the home. "I can truthfully say," Alexander asserted, "that my mother worked harder than my father."
Career Beginnings
On June 30, 1912, a few weeks after serving as valedictorian
for her high school graduation, Alexander married Philip Behrman. While
Philip worked in the personnel department of a hat factory, Beatrice
took a six-month commercial course and then worked as a book-keeper
for the Irving Hat Stores. In 1915, she gave birth to a daughter, Mildred,
in what she would later refer to as "the happiest moment of
[her] life."
World War I, which broke out two years after Beatrice
and Philip's wedding, changed Beatrice's future dramatically. While
untouched by the immense physical destruction of the "Great War,"
the United States was not immune to the massive economic disruption
of the war. Many of the dolls that filled Maurice Alexander's shop and
hospital came from Germany, and Hannah and Maurice's livelihood was
soon threatened by Allied embargoes of German goods.
Beatrice and her sisters, determined not to allow their
parents' business to fail, quickly decided to produce homemade dolls
for sale. Beatrice - recalling the despair of the young customers of
the Doll Hospital, and in any case deprived of more exotic materials
- proposed that they make a cloth doll. Inspired by the women involved
in the war effort, she chose a Red Cross Nurse for her model. Under
Beatrice's exacting but effective direction, the Alexander sisters gathered
around their parents' kitchen table to sew the dolls, which then flew
off the shelves of Maurice's store and saved the family business.
The Alexander Doll Company
In the years immediately following World War I, the
Alexander sisters continued to produce dolls for their parents' shop.
They supplied what the European doll industry - battered by years of
war - could not. Beatrice discovered that she enjoyed the work. It fulfilled
her artistic inclinations, and she was an efficient manager. She also
needed a distraction after the loss of a second baby in a Spanish Flu
epidemic. In 1923, she decided to formalize her doll-making operations,
and with a $1600 loan, she created the Alexander Doll Company.
Hiring neighbors to help her sisters sew cloth dolls,
Alexander sold her first "Alice in Wonderland" dolls for $14.40
a dozen wholesale. When stores protested that the $1.95 retail price
did not allow enough of a profit, she lowered the price to $13.50 a
dozen. Barely breaking even, she worried her company would not succeed. "I was desperate, discouraged," she later admitted. "I wanted to run away, but by then I had employees, sixteen
people who depended on me." In the late 1920s, a burst water
tower almost destroyed the company. Alexander's mother saved the day:
after carefully drying the dolls and their clothes, she held a "water
sale" and sold the entire inventory at a huge discount, bringing
in just enough to keep the business alive.
Alexander had to fight to be taken seriously as a
businesswoman, for bankers often saw women as poor credit risks and
retailers tried to take advantage of them. But she skillfully manipulated
people's assumptions for her own benefit. Firm when necessary, she flirted
when it would help her cause. She also brought along her daughter to
meetings to heighten loan officers' sympathies for a struggling young
mother. When a sympathetic banker granted her a much-needed loan but
clearly did not expect her to repay it, Alexander vowed to repay the
entire sum early. "I wanted to teach him a lesson," she said. "You need to believe in people's dreams, especially
women's."
A Shrewd Businesswoman
In the mid-1920s, realizing she needed someone she
trusted to help her manage the firm, Alexander asked her husband to
quit his job. Philip was nervous about making the family's entire financial
future dependent on an unproven business, but Beatrice threatened to
divorce him if he refused. "I meant it," she later asserted.
"It seem[ed] to me I [could] always get another man." Philip
finally agreed and worked alongside his wife until his death in 1966.
By the late 1920s, Beatrice had taken on a new identity
as "Madame" Alexander. Although accounts differ as to how
she received the designation "Madame," the name appealed to
her longstanding dreams of refinement and sophistication. It also heightened
the sense of elegance that already surrounded Alexander's high-quality
dolls.
Just as it was finally getting on its feet, the Alexander
Doll Company faced another difficult hurdle: the Great Depression. Enough
people found that the fantasy world of dolls provided an escape from
the adversity of the time, however, that the business survived, and
even began to thrive.
Alexander had a keen instinct for what would increase
the sale of her dolls. In 1933, she pioneered the practice of movie
tie-ins, reissuing her Alice in Wonderland and Little Women dolls to
coincide with film versions of the books. Her greatest movie coup occurred
in 1936, when she created a Scarlett O'Hara doll that looked just like
Vivian Leigh, two years before Leigh auditioned for "Gone With
the Wind."
Alexander also kept a sharp eye on public events for
potential models. When the world's first surviving quintuplets were
born in Ontario, Canada, in 1934, she knew immediately that Dionne quint
dolls would be wildly popular, and the Alexander Doll Company quickly
secured the license to produce them. The Company followed the children
as they grew, and it was these dolls that truly brought Alexander Doll
to the forefront of the toy world.
Hiring neighbors to help her sisters sew cloth dolls,
Alexander sold her first "Alice in Wonderland" dolls for $14.40
a dozen wholesale. When stores protested that the $1.95 retail price
did not allow enough of a profit, she lowered the price to $13.50 a
dozen. Barely breaking even, she worried her company would not succeed.
"I was desperate, discouraged," she later admitted. "I
wanted to run away, but by then I had employees, sixteen people who
depended on me." In the late 1920s, a burst water tower almost
destroyed the company. Alexander's mother saved the day: after carefully
drying the dolls and their clothes, she held a "water sale"
and sold the entire inventory at a huge discount, bringing in just enough
to keep the business alive.
Alexander had to fight to be taken seriously as a
businesswoman, for bankers often saw women as poor credit risks and
retailers tried to take advantage of them. But she skillfully manipulated
people's assumptions for her own benefit. Firm when necessary, she flirted
when it would help her cause. She also brought along her daughter to
meetings to heighten loan officers' sympathies for a struggling young
mother. When a sympathetic banker granted her a much-needed loan but
clearly did not expect her to repay it, Alexander vowed to repay the
entire sum early. "I wanted to teach him a lesson," she said.
"You need to believe in people's dreams, especially women's."
Expecting the Best
Alexander managed her business with meticulous care.
As the Company expanded, she maintained the high standards she had set
for her sisters when they sewed the first Red Cross Nurse. "If
a child plays with a doll put together poorly," she said, "dressed
with pins and poor stitching, she is apt to...become a woman who reaches
for a pin instead of a needle in later life."
"You never knew when she would suddenly get
it into her head to take a walk on the factory floor," says Alexander's
long-time secretary. "I guess you could say she was conducting
spot inspections. She demanded the best from everyone who worked beside
her because she demanded the best of herself.... If she saw lace on
a hem that seemed to be frayed or uneven, she would complain and demand
that it be fixed immediately. It wasn't nit-picking; she was the quality
control of the whole company." The care with which Alexander
oversaw operations ensured that her dolls always retained their reputation
for quality. She maintained the same exacting attention to detail in
all of her business endeavors.
Alexander was a demanding employer, but she was also
fair. Long-time employee Greta Schrader remembers her as direct and
to-the-point - she "called a spade a spade" - but also as
polite, amenable to suggestion, and truly caring about her workers.
Her employees worked year-round, unlike those at other doll factories,
and Alexander paid bonuses twice a year. Despite the lower labor costs
abroad, she was adamant at keeping production in the United States;
by the 1980s, hers was the only American doll company that did not manufacture
any part of its dolls outside the country. Alexander was also committed
to the local community, making significant contributions to local organizations
and refusing to leave her Harlem location. Her workers rewarded her
with loyalty, some over several generations.
An Innovative Designer
Alexander excelled at the design of her dolls. "I
didn't want to make just ordinary dolls witih unmeaning, empty smiles
on their painted lips and a squeaky way of saying 'mama' after you pinched," she said. "I wanted to do dolls with souls. You have no idea
how I labored over noses and mouths so that they would look real and
individual." To ensure that the dolls' costumes were scrupulously
accurate, she returned time and again to the New York Public Library
in search of authentic representations of other times, places, and cultures.
Her attention to detail was prodigious; even the dolls' petticoats were
full and lace-trimmed.
Standing at the forefront of innovation in doll-making,
Alexander experimented constantly to make her dolls more attractive,
more lifelike, and more marketable. Dissatisfied with the stiff, flat
faces of her cloth dolls, she developed techniques to sculpt in fabric,
achieving lively, realistic facial features. Sleep eyes, rooted hair,
and walking dolls were among the novelties that emerged from her factory.
Having moved from cloth to a new composition material in the 1920s,
immediately after World War II she was among the first toy makers to
use the new material of plastic, which finally allowed her to fulfill
her dream of creating an unbreakable doll.
Milestone Creations
By the early 1950s, Alexander's reputation earned her
a challenging commission: the department store Abraham & Straus
asked her to produce dolls representing the coronation of Queen Elizabeth
II. After lengthy research and consultation with the British Museum
of Costume, Alexander created a 36-doll set that included the queen,
maids of honor, archbishops, choir boys, royal relatives, and honor
guards. She purchased cloth from the same mill that manufactured the
real coronation robes and insisted upon authenticity even for unseen
undergarments. The resulting set - valued in 1953 at $25,000 - was so
accurate that CBS used it to recreate the coronation on television.
Thousands flocked to see it on display.
Two years later, Alexander created a stir when she
debuted Cissy, the first full-figured high-heeled fashion doll, four
years before Barbie entered the world. "For three years we kept
that one back," she later said. "We were afraid of
the D.A.R. and other women's groups." And perhaps the fear
was justified: "In her black lace chemise or white lace covering
over her pink body, the buyers [at the toy fair] ogled her ecstatically
and I had to convince them it wasn't meant for a peep show," she commented with disgust. "I was seriously introducing fashion" to young girls.
Doll Philosophy
Alexander believed strongly that, more than simple playthings, dolls
were tools that could stimulate children's minds, emotions, and imaginations. "Dolls," she said, "should contribute to a child's understanding
of people, other times and other places. Dolls should develop an appreciation
of art and literature in a child." They could also help children
learn how to relate to others.
With these goals in mind, Alexander chose her subjects carefully. As
a child, she herself had often escaped the drabness of everyday life
by immersing herself in poetry and novels, and she returned to literature
in search of characters she believed could act as effective teaching
tools. History, the arts, fashion, and the cultures of the world also
provided her with inspiration. From Romeo and Juliet to Cinderella,
southern belles to Chinese children, outrageous flappers to demure ladies,
Alexander's creations delighted young and old alike.
Wanting the child to remain the active participant in play, Alexander
avoided gimmicks and mechanical devices in her dolls. "I never
do mechanical dolls," she said. "I don't make dolls
that dance, walk or talk. I think that the child is the one who should
be inspired to do things with the doll. Dolls can bring out the creative
instincts in children."
Gender and Dolls
Alexander's stance on the suitability of dolls as toys
for boys was quite progressive for her time. Although she "would
never advocate a mother or father rushing out and buying dolls for boys," she also did not believe that boys would become "effeminate"
if they did play with dolls. In fact, she thought dolls could play an
important role in fostering boys' natural nurturing instincts. "I
don't think a parent should ridicule boys when they show affection for
little sister's dolls," she asserted. "After all, the
paternal instinct in men is an important as the maternal instinct in
women, and it couldn't be good to crush that instinct in a child."
Despite her progressive views, Alexander's relationship
to feminism was complex. As a strong, outspoken, self-sufficient woman,
she clearly did not conform to traditional ideas about women's roles
and characteristics. She encouraged her female employees to be self-reliant
and in the early years even brought them to Margaret Sanger's clinic
for checkups and birth control. According to her secretary, "Madame
Alexander was the original feminist. She was doing a man's job when
the world was not always accepting or approving of an independent woman."
Yet with many of her creations apparently encouraging
girls to be more concerned with appearance and etiquette than with self-fulfillment,
Alexander was forced to respond in the 1970s and 1980s to charges from
the growing feminist movement that the doll industry was retrograde
and harmful to women. Denying vigorously that her dolls contributed
to the oppression of women, she argued instead that they helped to build
up a girl's "capacity to love others and herself." The role of dolls - and of toys more generally - in building children's
sense of appropriate gender roles remains hotly debated today.
"The First Lady of Dolls"
By 1936, only thirteen years after she founded her business, Alexander
was "deferred to by all the gallants of the business as the
Queen of Dolls," and Fortune magazine listed her as
one of the three largest doll manufacturers in the United States. Alexander
Doll later became the largest producer of dolls in the nation, occupying
several factories and employing 1500 people at its height. In the 1980s,
it produced over a million dolls each year; today, it employs six hundred
people at one factory in Harlem, where it is the largest private employer.
The high-quality Alexander dolls were dubbed "the Cadillacs
of dolldom" by the press. Customers stood in line for hours
to buy new creations, and retailers sometimes had to limit the number
of dolls a shopper could purchase. "People were desperate to
go home with more than one doll," says an associate of Alexander's
of an episode in a department store. "[T]hey would lie, beg
or even try to steal to get more than one Scarlett. It was truly amazing."
In 1961, admirers formed the Madame Alexander Fan Club (later called
the Madame Alexander Doll Club), membership in which eventually reached
12,000. Although Alexander often said that "nothing [gave her]
more satisfaction than to see a child playing with [her] dolls," many of the dolls became collectors' items. Alexander dolls now reside
in private collections and museums - including the Smithsonian Institution,
the Brooklyn Children's Museum, and the Congressional Club - throughout
the United States and abroad.
Alexander's achievements were recognized by her colleagues
as well as by her customers. In 1951, she won the first of four consecutive
Fashion Academy Gold Medals for "the ultimate in design beauty,
for encouraging good taste and clothes appreciation, and for symbolizing
'best dressed' so perfectly." In 1986, Doll Reader magazine
awarded Alexander its Lifetime Achievement Award, and FAO Schwarz named
her the First Lady of Dolls.
Generous Philanthropist
In 1982, Alexander recalled that the Women's League
for Palestine (now Women's League for Israel) had been a crucial factor
in her entry into the business world. In the 1920s, she became involved
with a group of women who, concerned about the fate of female immigrants
to Palestine, founded the League to help provide the immigrants with
homes and jobs. For several months, Alexander took money from the household
budget to contribute to the League, but eventually her husband confronted
her about the unpaid bills.
"I sat in the easy chair all night," Alexander remembered. "I said 'I am not going to stop doing
this. I am not going to bed, I would have been asleep for Israel. What
can I do where I can be left with fifty dollars a week...? ....That's
all I spoke about, 'I must do something to earn money.' I had no trade,
I had no profession.... All I knew was that I needed a few extra dollars
to help those girls in Israel." She decided to start her own
doll business to earn money to donate to the League.
As is often the case, the many years between event
and recollection left their mark on Alexander's memory. Her decades
of dedication to the Women's League - one of its homes in Jerusalem
has named a rose garden in honor of her lifelong devotion - probably
caused her to overstate its influence on her decision to start her own
business; the Women's League was actually founded in 1928, five years
after the Alexander Doll Company opened. Nonetheless, Alexander's philanthropic
drive was an important motivation over her long business career.
Over the years, Alexander contributed to many Jewish
and non-Jewish causes, including the Anti-Defamation League, the Jewish
Theological Seminary, Brandeis University, the Harvard-MIT Division
of Health Sciences and Technology, and the Einstein College of Medicine.
A strong Zionist, she supported the American Technion Society, Women's
American ORT, and the American Friends of Hebrew University as well
as the Women's League. "I have gained more by my interest in
Israel," she maintained, "than Israel has gained by
the thousands of dollars I have given."
Later Years
Alexander remained actively involved with the Alexander
Doll Company into her early nineties. She made public appearances for
the Company throughout the 1980s, always met by enthusiastic throngs
of people. A 1983 visit by Alexander drew record crowds to Walt Disney
World, where a special events planner told Alexander that she was "more
popular than Elvis."
Alexander's day-to-day participation in the life of
Alexander Doll was waning, however. She had ceded control over everyday
operations to her son-in-law and grandson, Richard and William Birnbaum,
in the 1970s, and she spent increasing amounts of time in her second
home in Palm Beach, Florida. There she became involved with a new set
of local cultural and philanthropic causes and contributed significant
sums of money towards the election of Republican politicians.
In 1988, at the age of 93, Alexander officially retired
and sold the Alexander Doll Company to three private investors. She
remained nominally as a design consultant, but in actuality the Company
had passed from her hands. She died on October 3, 1990, in Palm Beach.
Legacy
In the years after Alexander's retirement, the Alexander
Doll Company floundered under its new management, despite the production
of many new and highly-praised dolls. In 1995, on the edge of bankruptcy,
the Company was acquired by the Kaizen Breakthrough Partnership. With
new management and production methods, it has regained its footing.
Beatrice Alexander's achievements over a lifetime were
prodigious. In an era when high-powered businesswomen were a rarity,
she created - virtually single-handedly - a company that became large,
profitable, and long-lived. A gifted designer with an unerring eye for
what would appeal to her customers, she demonstrated instinctive business
acumen. She also contributed significantly to the creation of the American
toy industry, a business sector previously dominated by Germany. The
toy industry continues to recognize Alexander's accomplishments even
after her death, inducting her in February 2000 into the American Toymakers
Hall of Fame. Today, rare Alexander dolls can fetch thousands of dollars
from those eager to expand their collections.
But Alexander was more than just a businesswoman. As
a generous philanthropist, she serves as a valuable example for others
fortunate enough to enjoy similar means. She also took on an almost
mythic position in the eyes of many of those who purchased her dolls;
customers adored not only the dolls but also their creator. A "Madame
Alexander" doll now memorializes the legendary doll maker, whose
dolls and own experiences continue to inspire new generations of both
children and adults. As collector Pat Burns comments, "There
were no 'glass ceilings' for this lady - just the role model I wanted
for my daughter!"
Sources: The Jewish
Women's Archive Exhibits. Photo Alexander Doll Co., Inc. |